Edinburgh

Edinburgh, Scotland’s capital city, has so much to offer. We’ll visit unmissable top sights such as the castle and the Palace of Holyrood to discover stories of murder and intrigue from history and ‘meet’ royal superstars like Mary Queen of Scots and Bonnie Prince Charlie. We’ll also introduce you to Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde and to all the city’s best-known authors, enlightenment thinkers, rogues and eccentrics.

The 16 episodes in our City Break Edinburgh series bring you all the background history and culture you need to fully understand this dramatic city. In short, here is all the research you’d do yourself if only you had the time.

Each episode centres around a podcast, available here or on all the usual providers. As a minimum, you’ll also find an introductory summary plus useful links and ideas for further reading. Eventually, there’ll be full blogpost with lot more information and pictures.

EDINBURGH : HISTORY & CULTURE

EPISODE 1: Introduction to Edinburgh

Walk the ghostly narrow closes of the old town, visit the elegant Georgian streets of the new town, tour that glorious castle, sample the whisky, the seafood or maybe a tattie scone; it’s no wonder that Edinburgh is one of the UK’s most popular city break destinations.

EPISODE 2: Edinburgh Castle

A stroll through the history of Edinburgh Castle takes in kings and sieges, feasting, battles, murders and plots. There are plenty of tales of capture and recapture, of English invaders and rival Scottish clans. Find out too what to look out for when you visit the castle today, including The Great Hall, built by James IV to host feasts and celebrations, the little room where Mary Queen of Scots gave birth to her son James, born to reign over both Scotland and England, and ancient treasures like the Stone of Scone and the Scottish Crown Jewels.

Palace of Holyrood, Edinburgh © Marian Jones

EPISODE 3: Holyroodhouse

Tales from the history of Holyrood in Edinburgh: King David’s escape from death while out hunting in the 12th century, inspiring him to found the abbey of the holy rood (cross), a royal wedding designed to unite the thistle and the rose in 1503 and all the drama of Mary Queen of Scots and her life at the palace. (Think intrigues, religious unrest, murders and her eventual flight to England) Hear stories about the later Stuart monarchs and find out what to look out for when you visit the Palace of Holyroodhouse and its beautiful grounds.

EPISODE 4: The Royal Mile

The Royal Mile in Edinburgh is ‘one of the fairest streets I ever saw’, wrote James Howell in the 17th century. We explore it from top to bottom, highlighting what to look out for and giving a little of the street’s turbulent history: proclamations and drunken celebrations at the Mercat Cross, Jenny Geddes hurling a chair at the Reverend James Hannay in St Giles’ Cathedral and John Knox raging against idolatry and ‘the monstrous regiment of women.’

EPISODE 5: Auld Reekie

We visit Edinburgh’s Old Town, or ‘Auld Reekie’ as the poet Robert Fergusson called it. Thankfully, Daniel Defoe’s 18th century warning that when walking the streets at night you risk ‘having Chamber Pots of Ordure thrown upon your head’ no longer applies. We visit two informative museums – The Real Mary King’s Close and Gladstone’s Land – and then bring you the story of the city’s most infamous resident, Deacon Brodie, pious citizen by day, but at night, ‘a gambler and a thief, dissipated and licentious.’

Edinburgh Museum Charlotte Square © Marian Jones

EPISODE 6: The New Town

A visit to Edinburgh’s New Town, with its elegant Georgian streets and squares, to linger a little in the Georgian Museum and to hear tales of the Scottish Enlightenment when, said the editor William Smellie, you could stand at the Mercat Cross and ‘in a few minutes, take 50 men of genius and learning by the hand.’ And the women? Well, society hostesses Mrs Apreece and Mrs Waddington were much admired, one ‘for the vivacity of her conversation’ and the other ‘for her remarkable beauty and the grace of her manners’

Scottish Parliament, Edinburgh © Marian Jones

EPISODE 7: Parliaments

The highlight of this episode is a visit to the Scottish Parliament, Holyrood. But first, the colourful story of who ruled Scotland over the centuries, the Scottish kings, the ongoing tussles with England, the Act of Union and subsequent rebellions and finally the Scotland Act of 1998 which led to the founding of the new parliament where a speaker could proudly announce that ‘the Scottish Parliament, which adjourned on the 25th March 1707, is reconvened.’

View from Edinburgh Castle © Marian Jones

EPISODE 8: Parks & Walks

Suggested walks, starting in the Old Town, with tales from Cowgate and the Grassmarket, Greyfriar’s Bobby and J K Rowling’s Hogwarts. In the New Town, plenty more squares, circuses and crescents and some idyllic detours, north through Stockbridge to the Botanic Gardens or west into Dean Village. There’s Dorothy Wordsworth on Arthur’s Seat, the explanation for ‘Scotland’s disgrace’ on Calton Hill and a ‘Democracy Trail’ around sights of political and historical significance.

Date James VI and I is born Edinburgh Castle © Marian Jones

EPISODE 9: Edinburgh’s History Museums

This is our round-up of Edinburgh’s history museums. We point you towards lots of goodies; the original National Covenant document, (4000 signatures opposing Charles I and his liturgical reforms), the dog collar and feeding bowl which belonged to Greyfriar’s Bobby, the Lewis chess pieces, the Democracy for Scotland tent ….. Or maybe you just want to hear about the wealth of medical horrors and intrigues at the city’s two medical museums. It’s all here.

EPISODE 10: Leith

A short bus ride from Edinburgh city centre will take you to Leith, the city’s port, or you can go on foot along the mile-long Leith Walk from Princes Street. You’ll find a working harbour, a range of pretty cafes, restaurants and galleries, a definite whiff of seafaring, past and present, and one of Scotland’s most visited attractions, the Royal Yacht Britannia.

EPISODE 11: Edinburgh Writers

Edinburgh was the first city to be designated a UNESCO City of Literature and whole books have been written about its writers and their legacy. The city’s Writers’ Museum is dedicated to ‘the big three’, Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott and Robert Louis Stevenson. Here’s a rundown of the life and works of each, plus ideas for where else to ‘find’ them in Edinburgh today. Enjoy!

Hands plaque for Alexander McCall Smith © Marian Jones

EPISODE 12: More Writers

‘It’s impossible to live in Edinburgh without sensing its literary heritage everywhere’ said J K Rowling and that’s why we need a second episode on Edinburgh writers. We bring you the 15th century William Dunbar, writing ‘The Thistle and the Rose’ for the wedding of James IV and Margaret Tudor; and Ian Rankin, who says each of his novels is ‘another piece of the jigsaw that is modern Scotland’; and everyone in between.

Greyfriar's Bobby Copyright Visit Scotland

EPISODE 13: Witches, Cemeteries and Ghosts

Not an episode for the faint-hearted! We have collected together a host of Edinburgh’s stories on witches, grave-robbers, spectres and apparitions. Is it the ‘majestic gloom’ of Edinburgh’s dramatic setting? The dark unknowns of the Old Town’s tenements and wynds? Or the city’s long history of violent murders, plagues and hangings? For whatever reason, Edinburgh is known as ‘the city of ghosts’ and here is a selection of the tales which explain why.

Emilie Sande, Edinburgh David Hume, National Portrait Gallery Scotland

EPISODE 14: Edinburgh Art

A tour of Edinburgh’s galleries and a chance to get to know some of Scotland’s best-known artists and paintings. That includes portraits of royalty and Enlightenment thinkers, plus the great and the good from more recent times: Sir Chris Hoy, Ian Rankin, Muriels Spark and Gray. We also cover Scottish landscape painting and scenes from rural life in the past: Pitlessie Fair, Neil Gow, (18th century touring fiddler extraordinaire), an ice-skating vicar and The Monarch of the Glen.

EPISODE 15: Food

A chance to dream of wonderful Scottish produce (think highland beef, Scottish salmon, raspberries), to unravel some mysteries (What are rumbledethumps? Or clootie dumplings?), to discover what’s in Scotch broth and what Burns wrote in his ‘Address to a Haggis’ and to reminisce about a proper Edinburgh afternoon tea in the 1920s. We may even mention the deep-fried Mars bar.

Edinburgh Poets Pub by Alexander Moffat taken at the Scottish National Portrait Gallery by Marian Jones

EPISODE 16: Anthology

A tour of Edinburgh through the eyes of the travellers, poets and novelists who captured its essence. London, compared to Edinburgh, wrote Charlotte Bronte, is as ‘prose compared to poetry.’ Well, we bring you lots of both, from centuries past and right up to the present day.